VE Paddles are handmade in the UK, and there are a few decisions to make before you buy: which blade, what it is made from, and what sort of shaft you want.
Worth saying up front that this does not mean a long wait. We carry a good selection in stock, and most of the popular specifications are available from VE too, so in practice you are usually buying off the shelf. If you want something less common, a particular length or a left hand feather, they will build it for you, and that is where the UK factory really earns its keep.
This guide covers the VE whitewater range specifically. We stock other paddle brands alongside VE, so if nothing here sounds right, give us a ring and we will point you at something that does.
1. Which VE blade
Blade area is the first decision and the one that changes the feel most. A bigger blade moves more water per stroke, which means more power available but more load on your body. A smaller blade is gentler and encourages a higher cadence.
VE build three whitewater blades, and in our experience most paddlers are best served by the middle one.
VE Creeker, 700 cm²
The mid-sized, all-round blade and by far our best selling VE paddle. It tapers towards the neck, so power builds gradually through the stroke rather than hitting all at once. That makes it predictable and forgiving, which is exactly what you want whether you are still learning to read moving water or you are on it every weekend. At 485 x 200 mm it is the blade VE designed with river runners, creek boaters, coaches and guides in mind. If you are not sure, this is the one to buy.
VE Flyte, 735 cm²
Built around stroke efficiency, with a design borrowed from slalom racing. The catch is more assertive, which encourages you to start the stroke earlier, and the blade tapers so it releases cleanly at the exit. It suits paddlers who are thinking about technique and want to get everything out of each stroke.
VE Pro, 740 cm²
The largest and most aggressive of the three. Power arrives the instant the blade is in the water and keeps driving to the exit, with the shape concentrating force towards the tip. It is a freestyle blade at heart, and it suits paddlers who want an immediate response and have the strength to use it.
A common mistake is buying more blade than you need. A big blade is tiring over a long day, and fatigue costs you more on the river than a slightly smaller blade ever will.
2. Glass or Aircore carbon
VE offer the same blades in two constructions, both made from prepreg composites in a high pressure press at their UK factory.
Glass is the popular choice and the one we sell most of. It is tougher, more forgiving of rock and shallow water, and considerably better value. It is heavier than carbon and has a little more flex, which some paddlers actively prefer because that flex takes some of the sting out of a long day. A glass Creeker on a glass shaft weighs 966 g at 197 cm.
Aircore carbon is VE's lighter, stiffer blade. It is more responsive, the catch is sharper, and there is less weight to swing at the end of a long day. The same Creeker in Aircore carbon on a glass shaft drops to around 851 g, and a full carbon build is lighter again. It costs more and is less forgiving of abuse.
For most people starting out, or for anyone whose paddle gets a hard life, the glass VE blade is the sensible buy.
3. The shaft
Glass or carbon
The same logic applies. A glass shaft has a touch more flex and costs less. A carbon shaft is lighter and stiffer, so more of your effort goes into the water. VE let you mix them, and an Aircore carbon blade on a glass shaft is a popular middle ground that sits neatly between the two.
All VE shafts are 30.6 mm in diameter with a ground and waxed grip finish and ovalised indexing, so you can feel the blade angle without looking.
Straight or cranked
A cranked, or bent, shaft has bends that sit your wrists in a more neutral position through the stroke. That takes strain off the joints, so it is worth considering if you have had trouble with your wrists, elbows or shoulders. Plenty of paddlers with no such history simply find a crank more comfortable, and VE's moulded grips give you a clear sense of where the blade is without looking.
Whether you get on with one is very much personal preference. Some paddlers love them, others never settle. Try one before committing if you possibly can.
One piece or split
A one piece shaft is lighter, simpler and cheaper. A two piece split costs more but earns it three ways: it packs down for travel and expeditions, it makes a sensible spare to carry behind your seat, and VE's aluminium connector gives you 10 cm of length adjustment and infinite feather you can change on the bank rather than living with whatever you ordered.
If you travel with your paddle or want one paddle to cover several boats, the split is worth the money.
4. Length and feather
Whitewater lengths typically run from 191 to 203 cm. The right one depends on your height, the width of your boat and the sort of paddling you do. Shorter boats and a more upright stroke suit a shorter paddle.
Feather is the offset between the two blades. VE supply 30 or 45 degrees right handed as standard, and those are the ones we keep in stock. Thirty degrees puts less rotation through the wrists and is the more common choice these days. Left handed feather and other angles can be built for you if you need them.
If you are between sizes or unsure, get in touch. It is a lot easier to sort out before you buy.
5. Looking after your VE paddle
If you buy a split, store it with the connector open rather than closed. Leaving it locked keeps the joint under constant tension and will shorten its life considerably. Rinse salt off after sea use, and avoid levering off rocks with the blade where you can.
Still not sure?
Browse the full VE range, or give us a ring or drop in and we will talk it through. If what you want is in stock you can walk out with it, and if it needs building we will tell you how long it is likely to take before you commit. We also stock whitewater paddles from other brands, so if a VE is not the right answer for you we will say so.